He was born and raised in a coastal town. He has been living his life with surfing and loving it since he was a kid. It has been a part of his life rather than a leisure activity.
As he grew to adulthood, he began to travel around the world for waves. However, he says he still loves the waves on the shore of his hometown.
On this day, he got up at 4 o'clock and entered the sea to surf with the sunrise, as usual.
A Surfer's Day ~On a Shore in Japan~ [iPhone 4S/HD]
- Shot in 1080p full HD with an iPhone 4S on Sep. 17th, 2012